Speaking of wanting to write this bronze watch, it was a coincidence. When I watched the watches of this year’s auction in Hong Kong this year, I saw a few ‘special’ watches. Their dials have “discolored” after years of oxidation, adding a very distinctive personality to the watch. Discoloration due to oxidation? It’s really interesting. Such a phenomenon is very common in watches. It seems that everything will oxidize, which is a bit like rust in simple terms. Of a watch, the material that is most closely related to the wearer is of course the material of the case. Regarding the material of the watch, there are normal metal materials, and the more advanced ones are ceramics and carbon fiber. However, the watch has reached a certain level. These materials The watch does not make old iron watch friends interested. What they are pursuing is more a sense of interaction with the watch. For example, they create a unique watch by themselves. The one that can meet the requirements of this kind of senior watch fans is bronze. table.
Ancient Chinese Bronze
Talking about bronze watches, of course, I have to start with bronze. When I knew nothing about bronze watchmaking, when it comes to bronze, all I can think of is ancient Chinese bronzes, like the four sheeps, the bronze statues of Fangding and the bronze Respecting the plate is an important symbol of human history and civilization. Bronze is an alloy of three elements: lead, red copper, and tin. Because of its gray color, it is called bronze. Its melting point is between 700-900 ° C, which is lower than that of red copper. The hardness of the bronze containing 10% tin is red copper. 4.7 times better performance. Because the hardness of the bronze alloy is more than twice that of pure copper or tin, and it is hard and corrosion-resistant, it is very suitable for use in marine or outdoor public facilities. Around 1845, bronze was widely used in railway construction, bridges and buildings. There was no stainless steel in the early maritime period. Bronze became the first choice for shipbuilding materials due to its excellent corrosion resistance, so many people think of bronze when it comes to the ocean.
If it is said that bronze is only a material for making things, it is no different from other ordinary materials, and its magic is that it varies with different factors such as time, air, environment, temperature, and living habits. Easily oxidized, it will be stained with a light green during use, and the color will continue to deepen, so the watch made of bronze will become unique due to oxidation. Once this was a disadvantage, it was eventually Some thoughtful brands have become a selling point. But so far bronze materials have not been widely used in watches, only a few brands have introduced bronze watches. Such material characteristics cause watch players to show a polarized preference for bronze watches, which may be one of the reasons why bronze watches can only be summarized in the niche market.
Bronze watches first appeared around 1870, because they are more affordable than watches made of gold, so the preferential price allows ordinary people to wear the watch. In recent years, the popularity of bronze watches can be seen. Regardless of brand size, bronze watches have been launched. Due to the oxidative and discoloring characteristics of bronze, each bronze watch can brew a unique vicissitudes of color, and each person’s wearing habits and environment are different, so what it will look like after many years is unknown. Some people may wear it for decades, and after careful maintenance, it is still as clean as new, but some people wear it for a year or two and they will no longer take care of it. To put it bluntly, what style the bronze watch will ultimately show depends on how the owner raises it. The charm of the bronze watch is that the wearer always sees it differently in different time periods. However, the bottom cover of a bronze watch is generally not made of copper, because it is necessary to directly contact the skin to prevent the oxide layer from causing an allergic reaction on the wearer’s skin, and it is easy to become dirty. Made of metal.
The first brand to make bronze watches was Gerald Zunda. Master GeraldGenta introduced the first bronze-made Gefica watch in 1988. It became a topic, but it did not form a trend at that time. After the Bulgari brand, the GeficaSafari series, which was also reinterpreted in bronze, was launched in 2007. This particular material only started to receive a little more attention. Gefica’s design was inspired by the African hunting trips of Geoffroy, Fissore and Canali, and the name Gefica was formed by combining the first two letters of the last names of the three people.
The GeficaSafari retains classic design elements such as the bronze case and the metal grains inlaid on the case and crown. The earthy color scheme shows the rich natural vitality of the African continent. Although the use of bronze materials in the watch industry is still not widespread, but the individual appearance changes due to metal characteristics, plus each brand has its own unique interpretation of this material, for those who love bronze materials For watch collectors, these are the most glamorous existences of bronze watches.
Panerai’s bronze watches are more well-known than other brands, and the trend of bronze watches can be said to be brought by Panerai, which has led collectors to pay attention to bronze watches. When Bronze met Panerai, it was definitely a shock. In 2011, Panerai launched the first bronze watch. With the release of ‘Death Squad’, this PAM382 was worn by Stallone. At that time, the Panerai 382 was a hard-to-find watch, with a limit of 1,000 pieces worldwide. Few people had seen the real thing, and it was definitely a heavy-tasting poison.
The 507 launched in 2013 is very similar to the 382. The only difference is that there is an additional power display window on the 507 dial. The color of the dial is green and looks younger. The old process gives a rough and retro feel. I have to say that the greenish dial is very interesting. There are not many opportunities for this color to be used on the dial. If you consider the inseparable relationship between bronze and patina, then the green dial is a correct match.
IWC ‘Darwin Adventure’ Special Edition IW379503 Bronze Watch
IWC launched the bronze watch that many people did not expect. The first bronze watch launched in 2014-the special edition of the Darwin Adventure ‘Ocean Timepiece’, is made of high-tech bronze made of copper and aluminum alloy. , Ruggedness and hardness are higher than pure copper, and anti-wear, is the perfect material for manufacturing diving watches and adventure watches.
The watch is mainly black and yellow. Many people think that the gold luster of this watch will be made of gold at the beginning. Only it is an exception. However, with the passage of time, after the continuous oxidation of copper, the color of the case It will still get deeper and darker, showing a warm bronze color, giving a quaint texture. This warm-toned bronze color also appears as a fluorescent color on the hands, hour markers, and scales of the rotating inner ring. With a black rubber strap, there is no retro feel of the bronze watch, but it has a stylish look. sense.
The reason why this watch is called Darwin’s expedition is that in the Darwin era, bronze was commonly used in shipbuilding. Darwin collected a lot of valuable information during the Galapagos Islands expedition, which laid the foundation for his theory of the origin of species. And this marine timepiece is a tribute to this great natural scientist. The back cover of the watch is also engraved with Darwin’s head. Although this watch is also a commemorative model, there is no limited production. This is really good news for friends who like it.
Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze Bronze Watch
Tudor’s vintage diving watches have always been very popular. At the Baselworld 2016, Tudor launched a bronze version. The bezel, belt and dial of this bronze diving watch are all reddish brown, warm yellow aluminum copper alloy. The case reproduces the aesthetics of bronze materials used in ancient ships and other diving equipment. The barbed rose pattern carved on the large crown dates back to 1958, making the nostalgia of this watch even more obvious. The bronze-made case of Tudor’s bronze watch is patina-colored. It is cast from a high-performance aluminum bronze alloy and has a matte finish. It looks like a special beauty, so it was also a very popular one at that time. Watch.
Oris Carl Brashear Limited Diver’s Watch
Oris, who also has a set of diving watches, has also made copper watches. This CarlBrashear limited-edition diving watch is also the brand’s first bronze watch. It was born to commemorate the first African-American diver in the history of the US Navy. CarlBrashear’s legendary life, limited to 2000 pieces. The design of this watch was inspired by the copper deep diving helmet of the 1950s. In the CarlBrashear era, divers had to wear diving equipment such as copper helmets to dive into the deep sea. Therefore, the use of bronze to create this diving watch is very Monumental.
Bronze is initially bright and shiny, and will gradually darken after reacting with oxygen and water vapor, which means that over time, these 2000 limited edition watches will produce different patinas, eventually becoming unique One. In order to be comfortable to wear and to avoid direct contact with the skin, sweat oxidation, the bottom cover is made of stainless steel, and the pattern of the early deep-sea diving helmet in the center once again emphasizes the object that this watch pays tribute to. On the inner side of the navy rope pattern surrounding the helmet pattern is CarlBrashear’s famous saying: ‘It’snotasintogetknockeddown, it’sasintostaydown.’ (It is not a sin to be knocked down, it is a sin to stop climbing.)
Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special
Above we mentioned that bronze is mostly used for diving watches, but Zenith designed a bronze pilot watch “unusually”. The Zenith Bronze Flying is also very popular. This year’s pilot series special edition chronograph presented by Zenith perfectly reflects the retro atmosphere. The rich onion crown is made absolutely impossible to ignore. It is also easy for pilots to make adjustments while wearing gloves.
The 45mm large diameter and the large luminous display design ensure the best readability. The bronze case is coated with a layer of natural distressed finish through an oxidation operation, showing a unique retro style. The titanium case back is engraved with the Zenith aerospace instrument logo that echoes the characteristics of the pilot’s watch, the EXTRASPECIAL on the dial and the special oily frosted leather strap illustrate the distinctiveness of this bronze fly.
Bell & Ross-BR01 SKULL BRONZE
Speaking of the most individual bronze watch, it is really Bellace. Many people may be scared by the visually striking skull on this BR01 dial at first glance. In order to faithfully reproduce the 1944 paratrooper spirit and its badge, the brand ingeniously used the bezel and screws to form a skull and crossbones mark that is very similar to the pirate flag of the past. The hour and minute hands also incorporate other traditional military elements- The dagger and saber reproduced the horrific ‘Deathfromabove’ emblem of the airborne troops from the sky.
The surface of the watch case has also been specially added with a micro-blasting process to create a rough texture to increase the area of bronze in contact with air and improve the oxidation effect of the watch case. At first, this copper-tin alloy showed a pink or red gold color, and patina appeared on it over time. It was paired with a specially made leather strap, which has a strong retro flavor.
Summary: After knowing that the bronze watch is such a special existence, I also joked with my friends that buying a bronze watch can also train patience. The new bronze watch is very beautiful, but it may look more flavored after oxidation in the future. I want to know How beautiful and special it will be in the future, so it has to withstand patience, etc … But at present, there are not many varieties of bronze watches, and the production is not large. What does your bronze look like? (Photo / text watch home Sun Fangfang)